Why This Italian Winemaking Family Started Teaching Winemaking to Convicts

Instead of laboring in the dark and producing whatever “prison wine” the grapes might yield (with all of those negative connotations), since 2012 the prisoners have been shepherded along by Lamberto Frescobaldi, the president and head wine producer of his family’s prestigious Italian wine label. Under Frescobaldi’s stewardship, the vineyards at Gorgona have not only flourished, but the wine itself has begun to pick up global attention. These vintages are being recognized not only because of their unexpected story, but because they’re also quite good. And as revelations about the inhumane abuse prominent in many prisons and calls for clemency begin to gain traction in America, the power of Gorgona to humanize and spotlight its inmates has never been more compelling.

The 2.5-acre vineyard on the island was initially planted by members of a monastery, who inhabited the island long before it was a penal colony, and was later tended and improved by the University of Pisa’s Department of Agriculture from 1989 until 2012. When the university pulled out, the penitentiary’s former director Maria Grazia Giampiccolo started making inquiries with local Tuscan winemakers about working with Gorgona to improve their wine. As expected, not one winemaker responded to her messages—except Lamberto. Now, more than a decade into the project Frescobaldi explains why he was drawn to work with the property.

“I was attracted by the chance to provide these individuals with work and an occupation,” Frescobaldi said. “Gorgona is a social initiative aimed at aiding the reintegration of individuals into society through employment. The objective is to provide them with a tangible, hands-on experience in viticulture, offering a pathway to reintegrate into the workforce and broader social fabric. To achieve this, it’s crucial to provide them with a fair wage. This not only establishes an economic foundation upon release, but also acknowledges the valuable expertise gained on the island from our team of agronomists and oenologists during their time in detention.”

Though the island is technically open to the public, and parts of it have been designated as a national park, visitors aren’t usually allowed up inside the area allocated for the prison and its winery, except on special occasions like the release of a new vintage. That was the instance that warranted my visit to the island last summer, along with several other American reporters, and a swarm of journalists from all over Europe, eager to get a firsthand look at what is one of the most unusual working vineyards in the world. From their initial plantings, the vineyards now cover about two hectares, including both the original plot and a second planting done in 2015.

As visitors, we saw a humming, thriving winery manned by convicts who earned a fair wage, and were knowledgeable, confident, and took a sense of pride in showcasing the land and their upcoming vintage. In many ways, it felt and operated just like any other flourishing vineyard. And like many other vineyards, geography plays a factor in the wine’s quality, too. The island’s unique positioning approximately 19 miles off the coast of Italy gives it what the current director, Giuseppe Renna, calls “an exceptional microclimate,” as he further notes “the weather is temperate, and the temperature remains consistently stable. These conditions ensure the production of exceptional agricultural products.”

But it’s certainly not just the distinctive climate that makes Gorgona wine special. Renna is the first to credit Lamberto for the way he stepped into the prison’s ecosystem and built up the infrastructure of the place. “Against the advice of all research experts, Lamberto chose to challenge the negative voices and the risk of economic non-return, and he fully succeeded in this challenge, giving purpose and meaning to this already special island,” Renna said. “I call it a magical island: the island of second chances, where opportunities are given that would not be achievable anywhere else.”

Building on that ethos of second chances, in another unique and incredibly rare twist, prisoners at Gorgona who work with Frescobaldi on the wine initiatives are also offered employment with the winery upon their release. Not only is it extremely difficult for most ex-convicts to land jobs after their sentence is completed, but the chance to work in a field that’s as compelling and respected as the wine industry can turn a former inmate’s entire life around. And even before they leave the island, the winemaker was intent that anyone who was working for his company would not only be decently compensated, but also treated with respect as a human being.

“In order to better connect with them for the project, the previous director suggested that I should relate to these people by thinking about when they would be free again, and teaching them a job that could change their future and respecting their roles in the process,” Frescobaldi said. “I had to learn to refrain from passing judgment on them, as they have already been judged by the prison system. Therefore, it was important to treat them with the respect they deserve.”

All of this contributes to a harmonious atmosphere at the prison that allowed a bright, celebratory vibe to permeate the release party for the 2022 vintage during my visit last June. The international group tasted two wines crafted on the island: the Gorgona Costa Toscana white IGT, made from Vermentino and Ansonica grapes, and the highly-limited Gorgona Costa Toscana Rosso IGT, produced with Vermentino Nero and Sangiovese. Both were met with acclaim and enthusiastic responses by wine journalists gathered there from all over the world, which is in line with the wine’s consistently positive reception on the global market, too.

“After 12 years, we can confidently say that the wine is widely appreciated for more than just its story,” Frescobaldi says. “Wine possesses intrinsic qualities that make it exceptional, regardless of its background. This is further evidenced by the outstanding ratings it consistently receives from International Guides. And becoming passionate about one's work, especially with the vineyard and wine, is perhaps easier than with other products. A bottle travels the globe, bearing the story of all those involved in its creation. It's something we should take pride in.”

Learn more about Gorgona here.